The main character is the traditional fish cuisine, "Funazushi"

 I'd like to introduce you the very interesting ceremony that the traditional fish cuisine of Shiga Prefecture, "Funazushi", is treated as the main character. 

 Funazushi is the fermented fish cuisine with a rich regional flavor of Shiga Prefecture which is made from the round crucian carp, a species endemic to Lake Biwa. Simply put, after removing the gills, internal organs and scales, raw fish is preserved in salt for a few months, then pickled with boiled rice to ferment for about a year. Although, it really takes time, effort and experience, but many people still have been making Funazushi at home. 

 This is the Funazushi taken out from a barrel in which it has been pickled and fermented with boiled rices. 

When I removed fermented rices, Funazushi has shown up. 

 We usually cut Funazushi in thin slices when served. The orange parts are the eggs (roe) of a crucian carp. Funazushi has a unique smell which probably does make a strong first impression, but if once you get used to the smell, you don't think there's any food more delicious than Funazushi.

 Well, the introduction has become quite long, let's get down to the main topic.
The origins of this ritual go back a long way.  According to the legend, when the enshrined deity, Toyokiirihiko-no-mikoto, was on the way to beat pirates on the Lake Biwa and rested here, villagers provided Funazushi to his highness, then his highness was very pleased with this cuisine.

 This ritual has been designated the Japan Heritage.  It is held every year on May 5th.

 This is the venue of the ritual, Shimo-Niikawa Shrine located in Moriyama City, Shiga Prefecture. A long mat made from woven straw have been already laid on the ground. I think this is the very sacred ritual. For example, no one is allowed to cross a long mat, even to take a shortcut.  

 ↑The wooden building seen in the front is the worship hall, a facility for worship. Usually there is nothing in the building, I suppose. However, today is a festival day, so a portable shrine has been prepared. 

 Shrine priests appeared. I think the person in the left is the priest, but right is probably the head of parishioners who serve this shrine.  

 At first, two elder parishioners greeted kneeling on the long mat.

 Then, two young men solemnly carried the tray with plates and chopsticks, sake cups (below photo) and finally the sacred sake to the priests one after another.

 Young men are wearing kamishimo, traditional Japanese formal attire, playing a role of a samurai. So, they wore a short Japanese sword called 'Wakizashi' on their left hips (green arrows) . They carry out an important duty today and will cut the Funazushi later.

 Then two young men poured the sacred sake to the priests.


 Suddenly, a white horse appeared and went towards the building like a stockroom where the parishioners were getting ready for the ritual. Since this horse carries a sacred tree on its back and the young man towing the horse wears the apron described 'horse deity', I think this horse maybe a messenger of the deity. But, this is just my supeculation, sorry if I might be wrong.

 Soon after the white horse went back, two young men came out from the building and solemnly carried the Funazushi on a large cutting board to the priests.  They will take a role of "ita-naoshi" later.
 By the way, a baby born this year is participating to be blessed (in the center). 

 Each ten Funazushi are dedicated in front of the priests. You see the surface looks white, due to the attached fermented rice.

 Then young men who poured the sacred sake earlier made an appearance again.
After bowing in front of the preists, they started to perform the traditional ritual.  At first, when taking out a long knife, he fixes the wrapping paper with chopsticks, not by the hand.
 I think the young men feel very nervous, because many parishioners are sitting behind the priests and watching the behavior, giving varius directions sometimes. 

 In the presence of many guests, the young men are cutting the Funazushi into pieces in a very serious manner, holding iron chopsticks called 'Masaobashi' and a long knife in both hands.  They make exaggerated actions of raising a long knife or chopsticks high based on the tradition.
 During this ritual, it's the rule that the young men must not touch the Funazushi with their hands as well as the above photo.

 At almost the end of the ritual, two seniors who have previously played the same role in this ritual appeared and took a role of wiping away their junior’s sweat this time (green arrows).  These two men are called "ita-naoshi" and their action invoked laughter from the guests. In fact, it's so strong sunshine today that the priests wiped their brow by themselves.

 View of the shrine immediately after the ritual. The honored guests sitting at both sides are being served sacred sake.

 Finally, the cut Funazushi are served to the visitors in addition to the sacred sake. Although fish roe are sticking out, I tasted two pieces of the Funazushi. It has a salty taste and is a delicacy. It goes well with sake. Actually, I wanted to drink the sacred sake. But I came here by a bicycle, so I gave up drinking.

 After the sacred ritual is over, a dance called "Kanko no Mai" is performed. It hasn't started yet though. It is said that this dance depicts the courtship of male and female lions. Although I came back home without viewing this dance, I think I should have admired the dance. 

 Since it was inconvenient to go by bus and I wasn't sure if there was a parking lot nearby, I rented a bicycle to go to this shrine from JR Moriyama Station. It is about 5 km from the JR station. 
Last updated on June 6th.

 









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